tiny miracle

Manaus 04.27.08

Today’s goals were pretty modest. Get my bearings. Get a cellphone. Get some clean clothes. But really, the day’s been all about getting online. So much of the rationale for this trip is rooted in our (read PRI’s The World’s) desire to try something new. So, as well as bringing back radio stories - the core purpose - I’m hoping to experiment with other forms. This blog; Twitter; Facebook; youtube; flickr. All of them different ways to bring anyone interested into the trip, behind-the-scenes. And all of them online.

You’ll understand, then, the rising sense of panic that swelled from my boots up through my chest and into my throbbing right temple when it became clear that the disintegration of my hotel internet connection was not to be a passing event. Turns out the network was overloaded, but until that became clear I had a phalanx of concerned and helpful hotel staffers trying to put things right. They wielded cables galore, screwdrivers aplenty - some even wore overalls. I tried to explain in phrasebook Portuguese that the connection was good last night and this morning, and that maybe all it needed was a reset. But I fear I may have suggested that the life of a baby panda depended on the restoration of online business, such was their application. Anyway, all was lost.. until I made a quick call to someone back in the States (a special someone, if you must know.) Turning back to the screen, the internet had returned. Incredible. It felt like the end of a Boston winter. I know who I’m thanking for this particular miracle.

Back to the day’s tasks. Cellphone. No luck yet, I’m afraid. I found a shop with cellphones, and I was able to communicate the idea that I ‘don’t want a contract’. But it wasn’t clear if the phone would allow international text messages, something I need if I’m to tweet out on the road. This one will have to wait until the arrival of my fixer, Ursula tomorrow. She’s flying in from Rio late tonight.

At about the same time my bag should be on its way from Miami. My managing editor in Boston, Rob, asks if any recording gear is in that bag. It isn’t. I took all that stuff in my hand luggage. But there’s so much of it there wasn’t room for any spare clothes. Today I found some socks and a cheap t-shirt at the mall attached to my hotel, so I’m halfway decent. By the way, this hotel/mall matrix is familiar to me already. It’s got a very similar feel to the place I stayed in Dubai a year and a half ago. Here’s a link to that series, called Desert City.

So, I’m getting my bearings, but hardly in the what’s-Manaus-like sense. Bear with me and I’ll get there, hopefully tomorrow. Internet allowing.