woody notes, café au lait
May 2, 2008A friend asks: what does the rainforest smell like?
I’ve been trying to formulate an accurate (albeit subjective) answer, but it’s a tricky one. The truth is that it doesn’t really smell of anything, or at least of anything that I can directly label ‘rainforesty’. Shower gels can be rainforesty, for sure. But actual rainforest? Not so much. Now, there are people in the world with far better noses than mine. I’m sure they’d be able to pick out a multitude of woody notes and leafy tones. And maybe that’s the point: the rainforest is such a complex ecosystem - it’s thought countless species remain undocumented - that the smell, such as it is, turns out to be a complex affair too. It’s certainly not pungent. If anything it’s the moisture that acts on your senses (that and the sound.) Humid air creeps up the nostrils, latching on to vulnerable nasal hairs. It’s as if the rainforest won’t be contained: your nose is fair game for colonization too.
One curious experience today: I observed the Confluence of the Rivers (which, to my ears, sounds a bit like observing the anniversary of a medieval peace treaty.) It’s a natural phenomenon that occurs when two major Amazonian tributaries meet before becoming the broad Amazon beyond Manaus. The first river is the Rio Negro, so-called on account of its filmy, black water. Up close it’s not really black - it’s dark and grainy, the water logged with particles released from the tree-lined riverbanks.
The second river is the Rio Solimões, which is what the Amazon river is called before it joins up with the Negro. I’m sorry - it’s a bit confusing. There are countless tributaries of the Amazon and a variety of names throughout. Perhaps there’s someone who can clarify all this. Any takers?
Yes! [updated Friday morning] Thanks to Jesse N, a Brazilian now living in the States who writes:
In Brazilian geography we are taught that the Amazon river is born in Peru under the name Ucayle. When it crosses the border into Brazil it becomes the Solimoes river and when it passes Manaus and becomes very large it is called the Amazon the rest of the way until it reaches the Atlantic ocean. Basically it is the same river with three names - don’t ask me why!
Regardless, the confluence of these rivers - the Negro and the Solimões - is interesting because they flow at different speeds. That means they don’t merge, at least not immediately. You can tell just by looking because the Rio Solimões is a light brown (’café au lait’, everyone says) in stark contrast to the Rio Negro. They don’t mix. They simply flow alongside each other, divided and united.
Jesse N adds:
One other thing, the Negro and Solimoes waters have different densities (Solimoes with more suspended particles), and different temperatures (the Negro river is a lot colder than the Solimoes.) These are also factors that keep them from mixing.
Alex, I am from Brazil and I will try to clarify the many names that we Brazilians give to the Amazon river. In Brazilian geography we are thought that the Amazon river is born in Peru under the name Ucayle, when it crosses the border into Brazil it becomes Solimoes river and when it passes Manaus and becomes very large it is called Amazon the rest of the way until it reaches the Atlantic ocean. Basically it is the same river with three names, don’t ask me why?
One other thing, the Negro and Solimoes waters have different densities (Solimoes with more suspended particles), and different temperatures (the Negro river is alot colder than the Solimoes.) These are also factors that keep them from mixing.
I lived in that region of Brasil for 9 years, now I live in USA… I imagine how different it is for you to be there, specially in Manaus. Since you are there make sure that you go to the opera house, to the market by the port (it is very interesting at the market because there are so many different fruits, fish, animals, and sounds it is definitely an interesting place to go.)
I hope you enjoy your trip!
I will be following you through your blog